The Star Exfoliating Ingredient That Will Give You Baby Skin

Skin-care ingredients inspire a lot of passionate debate (one minute your feed is blowing up about coconut, the next it’s Kakadu plum). But far from faddish, there’s one superhero staple that has remained relatively under the radar and is now earning well deserved buzz: enzymes.
Simply put—for those who haven’t thought about biochemistry for the better part of a decade—enzymes are substances that enhance a particular chemical process. “Essentially they acts as catalysts for a reaction,” explains New York City dermatologist Rachel Nazarian, M.D., of Schweiger Dermatology Group. Often derived from plants and fruits (or through fermentation), enzymes set in motion a specific—and critical—skin-care reaction: “They unglue the bonds between dead skin cells, which causes skin to exfoliate and slough off,” says Dr. Nazarian. And here’s the unique part: Enzymes do this without disrupting your pH—or the precise equilibrium “that skin requires to perform at its best,” she says.
This point of difference matters—a lot. Unlike chemical acids that have the potential to burn or weaken your protective barrier, enzymes are “unlikely to inflame, irritate or damage skin,” Dr. Nazarian says. And with all the recent talk about preserving healthy bacteria and nurturing skin rather than stripping it, consider enzymes a kinder, equally effective alternative for brightening and toning. If you’re ready to make the switch, look to the latest innovations—from melting cleansers to gel masks—backed with these smart ingredients. Here, five enzyme-charged fixes to unlock your best skin yet.

Ideal for sensitive skin, this five-minute gel mask is formulated with a gentle 1 percent blend of pomegranate and pumpkin enzymes—along with balancing ginger and hydrating glycerin—to counteract dullness without drying out your face.
Malin and Goetz Brightening Enzyme Mask, $55, spacenk.com

To clear out pores and prevent acne, this oil-controlling cleanser comes in powder form—all the better to preserve the potency of its fermented enzymes, says founder Dr. Barbara Sturm—and turns into a soft foam when activated with water.
Dr. Barbara Sturm Enzyme Cleanser, $75, molecular-cosmetics.com

For a youth-enhancing fix, this weekly peel combines fruit enzymes with collagen-boosting niacinamide to even out and firm your complexion (minus any stinging).
Verso Enzyme Peel, $90, barneys.com

To multitask on the go, this plant-based enzyme polish doubles as a scrub and mask in one—just buff into your face and rinse or leave it on for up to five minutes for more intense resurfacing treatment.
India Hicks Perfecting Polish and Mask, $58, indiahicks.com

Parched skin will benefit from this melting balm infused with pineapple enzymes, vitamin C, and organic beeswax to soothe inflammation and seal in moisture (and for a relaxing ritual, apply it on dry skin, then gently wipe off with a warm towel).
Oille Facial Balm Cleansing Intelligence, $98, oillenatural.com